TRW on the Road – Napa

It has been nearly three years since our last trip to Napa and nearly thirteen years since I worked harvest at Larkmead Vineyards.

In that time, Napa has transformed into a different place, and I have always struggled to understand the wines within the context of the commercial nature of the Napa Valley tasting room. There is no argument that Napa makes some of the most extraordinary wine on the planet, but they are also home to some of the worst offenders of formulaic wine. The commercial machine has only strengthened since my last visit, but the rebellion against mass-produced swill is alive and well. Napa Valley is always in constant flux.

Underneath the surface, many locals are unhappy with wineries deemed serial environmental offenders. Over drinks at Goose and Gander, one particularly vocal lady who works for the county told us exactly which wineries to support and where to avoid. Hint: if the winery is publicly traded, a large conglomerate, or has switched hands multiple times with Private Equity involved, stay far away. They are likely abusing the environment or making questionable additions to their wines.

Our first stop was Matthiasson, which is on the good list. They are in the Oak Knoll district, north-west of Napa, and have been practicing organic farming for years.  Their passion is wine that shows on the fresher side of Napa Valley, less extracted and more lifted. A real standout was their Linda-Vista Chardonnay, made from a vineyard surrounding their house, just a stone’s throw away. After a walk in the vineyard, sighting a rare eagle, and tasting some fantastic wines, we were ready to place an order and get their wines and vermouth back in Bermuda.

Our next stop was Dominus, the US outpost of the Moueix family and one of the most impressive properties we encountered. The wines at this estate speak for themselves and have been in our portfolio for many years. Because of the vineyard’s geographic location at the narrowest  point of the Valley, the family decided to dry-farm their vines, avoiding all irrigation. The result is a deep root system that can feed the vines with minerals and water from 20-30 feet below ground level.

The Dominus wines are always complex and improve with age due to their inherent minerality and freshness. Think Napa Valley fruit, with a Bordelais structure, and perfect balance. These wines are available now and are drinking perfectly, especially the 2012 Dominus. Please don’t sleep on the 2016 Othello, which comes from young vines on the Dominus property and is one of the best values we have encountered in Napa.

After a throwback lunch at Rutherford Grill, a fantastic tasting at Rivers Marie (wines incoming), and a visit with an old friend at Larkmead, we called it a day.

Day two started strong with an 8 a.m. visit at the top of Pritchard Hill with David Bantley from Continuum Estate. This is one of the most epic estates in Napa, with a beautiful mix of vineyards and nature reserves that contrast with the monoculture of the valley floor. This property is the Mondavi Family’s tribute to their late father, Robert, who was essential in building the Napa Valley into what it is today.

The Continuum Estate 2022 vintage showed beautifully, alongside a new Sauvignon Blanc from organic vineyards in Mendocino, which really hit a perfect note on the cold and dreary morning. We have some stock of the 2019 Continuum Estate and Novicium, with new stock of the 2022s set to arrive at the end of the year.

We moved on to Mayacamas on Veeder Mountain, one of the most scenic and historic vineyards in Napa. These legendary wines are coming into their own under a new winemaker and ownership. They will also be added to our portfolio ahead of Christmas. Keep your eyes open for a pre-offer.

We ended the day with Francois from Harlan in their picture-perfect winery. These wines speak for themselves and reflect an estate constantly pushing the envelope and examining its viticulture, winemaking, and DNA. We have a small amount of 2020 and 2021 Harlan available at the warehouse.

On day three, we met with Oscar who manages Rudd, which is in a perfect position on the Oakville bench, bordering Screaming Eagle, BOND Mount Eden, and Dalla Valle. The focus here is on organic estate fruit and a harmonious balance between nature and vines. We have a fresh shipment of wines arriving any day now, and these should not be missed. The Rudd Estate, as did Leslie’s Blend from Mount Veeder, showed well.

After a trek up through Angwin and onto Howell Mountain, we ended up at the scenic Outpost, where the wines stood out for their flashy mountain tannins. The True vineyard was the showstopper, and we have a small allocation arriving ahead of Christmas.

Our final day was a trek up Diamond Mountain to Diamond Creek Vineyards, a tasting on the valley floor with the classic producer Corison, and a meet-up with old friends at Di Constanzo Wines, which was truly fantastic. We are excited to add them to our portfolio, and we love to see the passion that both Massimo and Erin bring to the table. These wines are absolute stunners.

We ended the day at BOND, tasting all five wines side by side, getting a deeper understanding of the vineyards and the philosophy behind them. Quella, the most elegant of the five, seemed to capture hearts and minds.