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September 2026 Case of the Month – Barbera d’Alba

$256.50

Barbera’s Moment

For much of its history, Barbera d’Alba played a supporting role in the Piedmontese wine scene, the everyday grape, the workhorse variety, the wine poured at the family table while the Nebbiolo aged patiently in the cellar. Reliable, generous, and food-friendly, but rarely taken seriously as a wine of ambition or complexity. 

Over the past two decades, Barbera has undergone something of a revolution in the Langhe. Producers who once reserved their finest parcels and most careful winemaking exclusively for Barolo and Barbaresco began paying closer attention to what their Barbera vineyards were actually capable of; a grape of surprising depth, versatility, and site sensitivity that had simply been waiting for someone to treat it with the respect it deserved.

The results speak for themselves. Today’s finest Barbera d’Alba wines are rich, complex, and genuinely age-worthy, with the variety’s naturally pronounced dark fruit, velvety texture, and characteristically low tannins balanced by a careful approach in the vineyard and cellar that elevates the wine far beyond its traditional everyday status.

It remains one of the most naturally food-friendly red wines in Italy, equally at home with a simple pasta or something more heartier, and at prices that still feel entirely reasonable given the quality now on offer. The six wines on offer this month span a range of styles from the approachable and energetic wines of Vietti, Scavino and Luisin to the more complex and serious expressions from Mascarello, Giacosa and Conterno.

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Description

Giuseppe Mascarello Barbera d’Alba Scudetto 2018

From one of Barolo’s most traditional and uncompromising producers, the Scudetto is Barbera d’Alba treated with exactly the same seriousness that Mauro Mascarello brings to his legendary Monprivato Barolo. Ripe dark fruit – black cherry and wild berries – before moving into layers of undergrowth, damp earth, and subtle woody spice. There is a brooding quality balanced by varietal freshness that signals serious Barbera from mature vines. Decant for 30 minutes or so to allow its concentrated fruit and earthy complexity to open fully. It’s vibrant acidity and structure makes it an exceptional food wine – one for braised short ribs.

Bruno Giacosa Barbera d’Alba 2023

A really charming and vibrant Barbera by the ‘genius of Neive’. The Bruno Giacosa name needs no introduction in Piedmont – a domain that has defined the benchmark for Barolo and Barbaresco for generations, and the estate’s Barbera shows the same attention to detail that extends right through the entire range. The 2023 is bright, vibrant with dark cherry, wild blackberry, and a lifted violet freshness. There’s a warm, earthy Langhe character underneath that grounds everything beautifully, framing Barbera’s naturally plush texture and ripe tannins making it a thoroughly enjoyable glass of wine. 

Giacomo Conterno Barbera d’Alba ‘Vigna Francia’ 2022

From the same legendary Francia vineyard in Serralunga d’Alba that produces Monfortino – one of the most celebrated wines in all of Italy – this Barbera is a remarkable demonstration of what great terroir does to even the most approachable of Piedmont’s red grapes. The 2022 is concentrated with dark cherry, blackcurrant, violet, and a cool mineral earthiness, with a complexity and depth that goes well beyond what Barbera typically delivers. The palate is full and richly textured with the variety’s pronounced acidity given shape and direction by the exceptional Francia soils, and a long, savory, iron-edged finish. For Risotto ai funghi.

Vietti Barbera d’Alba ‘Vigna Scarrone’ 2020

Scarrone is one of the Langhe’s most distinguished Barbera vineyards, a prized parcel in Castiglione Falletto that Vietti has been farming for decades. Lifted and very aromatic with macerated cherries, wild rose, crushed violet, and a warm spiced earthiness. Generously textured, with Barbera’s naturally vibrant acidity giving the wine real shape and energy. A Barbera of outstanding quality from one of Langhe’s most trusted and consistently outstanding producers. Try it with tagliatelle con salmone.

Paola Scavino Barbera d’Alba 2024

One of Piedmont’s most admired estates, – a domaine known for its combination of modern and traditional winemaking techniques. A fruit forward and fresh style of Barbera with plenty of wild blackberry, red cherry, baking spice and sweet licorice. The palate ripe and beautifully defined, the oak perfectly integrated and the tannins firm but never imposing. Pull the cork alongside a rack of lamb and let it do the rest.

Cascina Luisin Barbera ‘Maggiur’ 2021

‘Maggiur’ comes from a tiny sliver of Barbera vines from the highly respected subzone of Nizza in the commune of Alba, where the estate produces a wine that showcases in striking fashion the variety’s ability to deliver incredible complexity when planted in a revered site. Fermented in cement like their venerated Barbarescos and aged for 12 months in large Slavonian oak barrels, ‘Maggiur’ captures the elegance and finesse for which Nizza is known. The 2021 is dense, concentrated and beautifully composed with tightly reined-in red fruits and perfectly integrated tannins. Barbera built for the table – pair it with aged Parmesan or a mixed plate of antipasti.